Is Cartier‘s recently released dive watch, the Cartier Calibre de Cartier Diver Replica, more than just a pretty face?
Aesthetically, the case is clearly a member of the Calibre de Cartier family. At 10.92 mm thick in our calipers, the Swiss Cartier Calibre Diver Watch is slim. When designing the watch, Cartier prioritized a svelte profile. At 111 grams, it’s also light, but as we’ll see, it’s no lightweight. All its surfaces wear a fine brushed finish. A polished bevel along the outer edges of the lugs catches the light. Between the lugs, the top of the case band angles out to meet the bracelet’s end pieces.
The solid caseback is held in place with eight small screws. As we’ll discuss below, to those in the know, the simple “Diver’s Copy Watch” inscription speaks volumes. The case is topped by an eye-catching, compliment-inducing bezel. It’s black ADLC over steel or rose gold, depending on the model. The deep gloss gives the watch a top-quality look. The edge of the bezel is highly polished, and crenelated for improved grip. The unidirectional bezel adjusts in 30-second increments.
When viewing two-digit dates in the curved aperture, it appeared to our eyes that the triangle indicator protruded slightly into the left digit, though the date remains legible. The sword-shaped hands are part of the Charming Fake Cartier aesthetic, and they function quite well, though some may regard them as too dainty for a dive watch. In the dark, all three hands glow, as does the small-seconds chapter ring.
The strap is soft rubber, and at 120 mm by 74 mm, it will fit over a wetsuit only if your wrists are small. The strap is 23.5 mm wide at the lugs, limiting precise-fitting aftermarket options. The pin buckle is solid and attractive. It has the same fine brushed finish as the case, with the Cheap Fake Cartier name engraved on the frame.
The upper, outer edge of the frame displays a fine, polished bevel. Behind the solid caseback is Cartier’s in-house automatic Caliber 1904 MC, which debuted in 2010 in the original Swiss Cartier Watches. This movement was designed by Cartier’s resident horological mastermind, Carole Forestier-Kasapi, and the architecture emphasizes chronometric stability. The twin, series-coupled barrels do not increase the power reserve, which is 48 hours. Rather, they smooth out the energy flow as the mainsprings wind down.